Spring-Break Crush Fest 2013: Part 1

In celebration of completing my first semester of grad school and, due to some slight weather constraints here in sunny Edmonton, because I can't actually go climbing (sad, I know), I thought I'd do the next best thing and write about one of the most epic climbing trips I've had to date with my good buddy Jake Sahl.

Since it would potentially be our last big trip together for a while, we decided to go big and try to tick two of the most awesome multi-pitch routes in the country: The Original Route on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, Nevada; and the famed Moonlight Buttress out in Zion National Park, Utah. What ensued was an epic saga of climbing adventure in which Part 1 will cover the climbing of the Rainbow Wall, Part 2 will cover Moonlight Buttress, and Part 3 an awesome cycling adventure through Utah that capped the trip. Will our two heroes make it back alive? We'll see...

1. Background:

I'll start with a bit of background on our circumstances prior to the trip. First off, neither Jake or I had free-climbed any multi-pitch as sustained as these two walls. The closest I've come would be Yosemite's Astroman, but these climbs would certainly be a big step up in difficulty. Secondly, the only training that I'd been doing prior to this trip consisted of bouldering at the Brickyard supplemented by running up the steep trails of Santa Barbara, while Jake's training, being the responsible grad student that he was at the time, consisted of a few Metolius hangboard workouts supplemented with some laps at UCSB's climbing gym maybe once a week. In essence, the odds were not in our favor. Nonetheless, in true Inexperienced-Average fashion, we weren't going to let these minor details hold us back. Who knows, with Jake's devilish charm and my good looks, maybe we could just pull this thing off.

2. A Brief History of the Original Route:

Our first goal of the trip was the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall. Beyond being a highly sought after big-wall free-climb, the Original Route also serves as an interesting lesson in climbing history in its own right. Originally an aid route put up by Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton in 1974, the route was climbed at a time when big wall ethics were switching from any means necessary to reducing impact whenever possible, no easy feat prior to the invention of mechanical camming devices. However, it wasn't until the mid 90's that, with recent developments in sport-climbing tactics, the route was free-climbed largely through the efforts of Leo Henson and Dan McQuade. The Original Route now stands as one of the finest big wall free-climbs in the country, requiring an interesting mix of traditional skills and sport-climbing power (for more in depth history on Red Rocks climbing see Joanne Urioste's excellent article in the 28th issue of Alpinist Magazine). Now back to our story.

3. The Adventure Begins:

The slabs of doom guarding the
base of the wall. 

After much debate on our tactics for the climb, Jake and I decided it would be best to fix the first three pitches on day 1, return to the ground for the night, and then push to the top on day 2. First, however, we had to simply get to the base, which mildly sucked, gaining quite a bit of elevation over a relatively short distance. Being the bright young individuals that Jake and I are, we decided begin our hike to the base at noon and I'll tell you what, even in spring-time the Nevada desert can get pretty hot, especially when you're loaded with bivy gear. Suffice to say we made it, only getting lost once.

After arriving at the base, we didn't have much time to relax before getting to it as it was getting late and we still had to climb the first three pitches. It was decided that I would go first and without further ado I got started. Turns out the Original Route doesn't really beat around the bush, throwing at you two of the harder pitches on the route right of the bat. After about 50 ft of easier climbing, I was immediately faced with the first 5.12 crux, an improbable seeming boulder-problem that leads into a few sustained 5.11+ moves to the anchor. I managed to pull it off second try and just like that one of the harder pitches was over.

Next up Jake had a 5.11+ pitch which I'd have to say was one of the coolest on the route due to its sustained and diverse nature. Pumpy technical lie-backing leads to an over-hanging sequence on good edges surmounting a steep bulge, all with the comforts of good gear and bomber bolt-protection right where you want it. In a word: perfect. Easily the wildest moves we've pulled on a big wall. Jake climbed well and managed to on-sight this beauty and just like that, we were smiling and two of the harder pitches were over. Happy with our progress, we decided to fix our lines and rap back to the base for dinner and celebratory Snickers bars, excited for the pitches to come and enjoying the view of the Las Vegas lights in the distance.

4. The Adventure Continues

Next morning we woke up at the crack of dawn and got started. Unlike the previous day, we actually got a pretty good warm-up ascending our fixed lines and then starting off with two excellent 5.11- pitches. After another 5.10 pitch we were at Rainbow Ledge where we took a little break to enjoy the position and have a bite to eat and drink before continuing into the second half of the route. It wasn't long before we were freezing our arses off, however, so we decided to push on. The next 4 pitches were on the junky side and not super memorable, and we got through them without much trouble.

Now we were finally into the red-dihedral, a spectacular feature that guards the summit and can easily be seen from miles away cleaving the upper head-wall of the face. The next two pitches in the dihedral were easily the most difficult on the route, and not in small part due general state of fatigue that develops by this point in the climb. Dire as the situation was we bravely pushed on. Jake was up first with another phenomenal 5.11+ pitch involving a sequence cryptic moves in the almost featureless dihedral. Despite all the previous sustained climbing Jake managed the on-sight once again, an impressive feat to say the least.

The Rainbow Wall looms dead center. The face rarely
sees sun, giving it a cold and daunting demeanor.

Now I was faced with the final 5.12- crux pitch. Although fairly straight-forward compared to the technical nature of the previous pitch, the climbing involves sustained and steep lie-backing for 30ft or so, and I was gassed. Nonetheless I summoned what energy I had left managed to make it through the difficult section after two falls, and then easier but run-out climbing led to the anchor. Jake dispatched the final and also excellent 5.11 pitch and just like that we were standing on the summit enjoying a spectacular view of Red Rock Canyon National Park with some daylight to spare no less.

After a few minutes enjoying the warm sun, we decided to start rapping in order to get down the approach slabs before night-fall. Seven raps later and we were at the base and two and a half hours later we were at the parking lot, where our buddy Dan Luna was kind enough to come and pick us up. Surprisingly, everything went smoothly, a rare case when compared to most of our other adventures.

5. Our Heroes Return:

Back at camp we were welcomed by friends, beers and some excellent burritos that my amazing girlfriend had cooked up for us. The next day we celebrated by getting burgers, more beers and sneaking into a hot-tub which was heavenly to say the least. Soon thereafter, however, it was time to begin the long drive to Zion National Park, where our next objective, Moonlight Buttress, awaited us.

While pleased with our success on the Original Route, it could not be denied that Moonlight would be a significant step up in difficulty and it was hard to relax knowing the challenges that loomed before us. While our charm and good looks likely helped us in getting to the top of the Original Route, these qualities were not likely to get us far on the difficult cracks of Moonlight. We would need something more, but what that something was neither of us knew....

*Teaser for Spring Break Crush Fest: Part 2

Stay tuned for Spring Break Crush Fest 2013: Part 2, in which Jake and Will find themselves in dire circumstances while bravely attempting to climb the notorious Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park, a harrowing journey that will lead to bloody knuckles, clashing parties and Jake getting urinated on (yes, you heard me correctly). How will they fare?